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It is curious as, little by little, all we are evolving and go assimilating the concepts of beauty and the values that the Japanese have of the bonsai. In my case, I still remember for a long time, in the first going outs to the mountain, to pass near side of marvellous pines, with impressive barks and large sharis for all the trunk, and I practically did not do neither case, they therefore seemed me long sticks with two branches.
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Clearly that I was “blind”, trying to find very dense material, ramified and with certain form of "conventional" tree. But when I knew the bunjin style I began to see and soon the nature was showing me the beauty enclosed in these pines when they are so old and twisted. When I realized, my inclinations had rotated 180 degrees, finally I just had eyes for them. I was not tired to look at them with incredible amazement, they caused me a strange sensation and even without knowing I was feeling the “sabi-wabi¹” of what so many times heard about.
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I carry already enough time cultivating Scots pines and currently almost all is said, but if in some points did special emphasis would be in the following ones:
For pines established whose objective is to maintain the equilibrium and to reduce the size of the aciculae.
1. - to Water less. If I maintain alive the pines, means that I am watering well? ¿How I know if I am doing it correctly? I had some pines in a town were I only went on weekends and therefore the irrigations were spaced, until 2 and 3 times less, if I compared him with the ones that he had at home. With the time I observe that they were healthy, they sprouted and they went back very well and curiously the aciculae was smaller, as well as the yolks that formed for the following year. Always they have said us that to water are a difficult technique and in Japan the students pass their first years learning to water, but care, always supervised by a teacher. If we do not have nobody close with more experience we can do it in a wrong way, and besides that we can continue thus for many years. We must do tests and studies of observation, as for example to reducing the irrigation in some pine of smaller value.
2. - Not to forget during the transplants to place in the fund of the pot splits of the mycorrhizae they formed in the previous substrate. This among others things, helps the tree to recover and permits you to reduce the irrigation considerably.
3. - to trim the older aciculae and to clarify buds, are two fundamental techniques. Trimming the aciculae during the autumn favours the apparition of rear yolks but has always gone me a lot better when has been accompanied by a clarified of buds.
4. - Maximum sun.
5. - to reduce the fertilization, above all at spring time.
6. - to Transplant less.
With the years, in the pines that I have more finished, stable and with a lot of density, when arriving the spring, curiously the yolks are not extended forming candles, they only opened leaving an aciculae very cut, so I do not need to trim and I only carry out a clarified of bud that does that new yolks appear by the interior and in autumn I trim the aciculae rear, so that the light and the air penetrate well.
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