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| Articulos • articles • artigos |
Scots Pine, from A to Z |
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By Pascual Costa. This pine lives and vegetates above 1000 meters and extends from Scandinavia and the Arctic Polar Circle, in Siberia, to the south of Europe. It is characterized by having the bark of the trunk upper part, “papiracea” and of orange colour, its aciculae short, and its small pineapples. It seeks in the heights the low temperatures that reduce the lack of humidity; on the contrary, to a large extent of their European area is a tree of plain, that this considered as resistant species to what in this latitude we consider dry climates. |
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The Scots pine as a bonsai. The Scots pine by its characteristics, is ideal to cultivate and to shape as bonsai, beginning for its small leaves, its also small pineapples, the easy cultivation and recovery of the transplant, wires, trim, selection of needles and yolks, and the well known flexibility of the pines. It is a pine that bears well enough the cuts of pruning and the work of dry wood (provided that the tree this fort of vigour and deep-rooted correctly.) It is advisable to do as a minimum two times a year a process of fungicide and preventive insecticide. |
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Working the pines is like better can be understood, the results that can be obtained with this species, really flexible and manageable in wiring and to place the branches in position desired. The more gross and old branches are the most complicated to double, but with raffia and wire, can come double apparently impossible branches to shape. There is always the branch that is better not to double for the inflexibility that has. From time to time is better to include in the design some natural branches that to try to double or to become a jin. |
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The trimming must be carried out it in spring when the new candles reach the just maximum development before form the needles. The trim will be an half, this is carried out each day, in spring, (month of April), and we just trim the strong candles leaving the weak, this way we balance the zones of branches and tree. We only eliminate completely the candle, when in a bud there are at least three candles and the eliminated will be the strong one, leaving two, will obtain better distribution and order of growth. |
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We continue working, observing in every moment the wire that itself not be incrusted in the bark. It is in the epoch of growth when we must be alert, in the case that harms (to be embedded in the bark), that will be the moment to remove the wire and if the branch does not remain in position, we will wire again. In the Scots pine, as it only sprouts once a year it is very easy to not realize the growth, and to be nailed the wire with facility, therefore you have to be very attentive and to observe very often all the branches wired, and to avoid those furrows in the bark that remains ugly and is not natural. In September and October, we have work in the pines. Cleaning of old needles touches us and selection of yolks, at the same time that we do this work, in the zones but dense prune and we will clarify ramification, cutting buds of tips of three or but yolks grouped in a same point, (leaving some interior yolk), but they are clarified, the ramification is formed suffices and is just the opposite of what we want to obtain, fine and orderly ramifications. |
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We speak of yamadori pines. It is certain that the trees yamadori, are the most appreciated and valued. But also it is a natural value that be respected and that tree that recover, have the certainty that is going to live, otherwise it do not have neither that to touch, and to enjoy it in nature. But if you know well that is going to live, another enjoyment will be that work as a bonsai it, and other people admire it also, because if did not were for the bonsai, enthusiastic people al bonsai or not, they would not be able to admire and to enjoy that small nature. The ideal moment for the yamadori, serious to recover, in April, the yolks begin their activity and is noted that they begin to be put but reddish and swollen. Already it is to know that as many more fine roots obtain al to remove (without breaking the root system), but guarantee have that I live, (if did not were thus will desist of the recovery). In the case of have not sufficient roots, you would be able to ring the root system, in three sections and each year to ring a part, during two or three years, when assure you that have new roots, to recover, in this way we can enjoy all, of this future one bonsai, al to assure you that goes to live.
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Roots growing in field, not fine roots exist. If we cut and we recover al same time and breaks itself us the root system it but insurance is that the tree do not I live. We need that in the recovery we remove the major number of roots without breaking the root system. The best in these cases is to ring the roots. Example of ring: We leave in three parts the root system, to a distance of the trunk of 15cm approximately, we ring doing a trench of sufficient depth to cut all the roots, we fill the trench with substrate and we water with a prepared with hormones. If we can be not going to water biweekly, al substrate can be mixed with a gel humidor or some homemade system like a bottle of water with an orifice calculated that liberates 1/2 l of water each day. The best is to water weekly in summer days. First year they are born new roots. Second year they continue growing those of the first year and they are born those of the second year. Third year they continue growing the roots of the ring of the first and second year and are born the new roots of the third year. Following spring you can recover with the entire guarantee that the tree will live.
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When we continue working after recovering a yamadori. The following day of the recover, is when begins the work of the future bonsai. But do not work, while we are not sure that the tree is strong and have passed as a minimum of two years, since his recovery. Till that day we will cultivate, and we will treat him with affection, the care with the irrigation, and a lot of sun. It is recommendable to maintain it the first month in a semi-shadow situation to cultivate it later to full sun. In all this time that you are just taking care of, you think about the bonsai each time that you water him, in your mind you plan a design of how does he go to be, this new one bonsai. For me it is a true commitment to recover a tree, and I think, that at the moment that you recover it, it is like a son, that you have to take care for a life time. If is not going to be this way, better not to recover, it is going to be perfectly in the nature. The land that use for the pines is 60% of akadama and 40% of volcanic fine 3-5 mm, or land pumice of the same size, also go well other mixtures, but with good drainage, or simply akadama 100%, (all these mixtures free of dust). The scots pine likes water as the majority of the plants. With a good drainage you have not to have objection to water abundantly, every day in spring and in summer even two times al day, but avoiding not to water in the hours of but sun, and that the flowerpot not this hot one, (is important to water two hours before the sun harms to heat) in autumn and in winter, reduce the irrigation, but the pine has not to pass in no moment thirst.
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With the fertilizer you must be generous, and to fertilize each month, one or two times, with the liquids you have to be less forgetful and to fertilize without breaking the cycle of labelling recommended of the manufacturer, the organic fertilizer, is less forgetful, because each month, have to fertilize, but if they spent a few days, the continues having fertilizer of the previous time. Detail of formation of a branch, this formed in a single level, would be able to split in two levels. |
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The same branch worked as a JIN. |
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